Water Manifold End Cap 2″ x 3/4″ RB (6PT)

Product Overview

As a hot tub enthusiast and spare parts supplier, I’m excited to offer this high-quality Water Manifold End Cap. This versatile component is an essential part of your hot tub’s plumbing system, designed to efficiently distribute water while allowing for easy customization and maintenance.

Key Features

• Manufactured by Las Water30, a trusted name in hot tub components
• Durable construction for long-lasting performance
• Multiple connection points for flexible system design
• Compatible with both 2-inch rigid and flexible rigid pipes

Detailed Description

Design and Functionality

The Water Manifold End Cap 2″ x 3/4″ RB (6PT) is a crucial element in your hot tub’s water circulation system. Its unique design features a 2-inch socket (female) end and a 2-inch spigot (male) end, along with six 3/4-inch smooth barb outlets. This configuration allows for versatile plumbing setups, making it ideal for both new installations and system upgrades.

Material and Construction

Crafted from high-grade, pool-and-spa-safe materials, this manifold end cap is built to withstand the demanding environment of your hot tub. It’s resistant to chemicals, temperature fluctuations, and regular wear and tear, ensuring a long service life.

Installation and Compatibility

This manifold end cap is designed for easy integration into your existing system. The female end accommodates incoming 2-inch pipes, while the male end fits snugly into 2-inch female sockets. The six 3/4-inch smooth barb outlets provide ample options for connecting various hot tub features or auxiliary equipment.

Applications

• Water distribution for jets and other water features
• Customizable plumbing configurations
• Ideal for both residential and commercial hot tubs
• Perfect for DIY enthusiasts and professional installers alike

Installation Tips

For the best results, I recommend using a high-quality plumbing cleaner before applying pipe cement during assembly. This ensures a secure, leak-free connection. Remember, the pipework pushes inside the female end of this part, while the male end is designed to be inserted into a female socket.

Specifications Table

Feature	Specification
Type	Water Manifold End Cap
Manufacturer	Las Water30
Main Connection	2″ Socket x 2″ Spigot
Outlets	6 x 3/4″ Smooth Barb
Internal Diameter (Male End)	60 mm
Internal Diameter (Female End)	68 mm
Outer Length	202 mm
Depth	100 mm
Compatible Pipes	2″ rigid and 2″ flexible rigid

Why Choose This Water Manifold End Cap?

By selecting this Water Manifold End Cap, you’re investing in a high-quality component that will contribute to the efficient operation of your hot tub. Its versatile design, durable construction, and ease of installation make it an excellent choice for both replacement and new setup scenarios.

Whether you’re a seasoned hot tub owner or just starting your journey, this manifold end cap will prove to be a reliable and essential part of your system. It’s designed to meet the demands of modern hot tub configurations while offering the flexibility needed for custom setups.

Remember, proper installation and regular maintenance are key to getting the most out of your hot tub components. If you have any questions about this product or need advice on your specific setup, don’t hesitate to reach out. Your satisfaction and the optimal performance of your hot tub are my top priorities.

 

 

USA Imperial is the Standard

 

All hot tubs and their fittings are designed for USA standard of Imperial pipe. Would you believe that for example, a European 2.5″ pipe is different from a USA 2.5″ pipe – well it is and there is just over 2mm difference and it makes a huge difference as it doesn’t fit!

You must make sure that you are using American standard sized pipe – always worth checking with your supplier before you purchase.

Can I convert Metric pipe to Imperial?

 

Yes, you can convert metric pipe to imperial, usually there is a socket connection that will do that. However, what I would preface that with is really, the only reason you would want to do that is say if you have a long run of pipe between your control room and your hot tub. You cant easily get imperial pipe supply but you have found say 75mm pipe that would do the job.

In this instance, it would work to convert it down at each end.

However, what you cannot do (technically you can but it is a real mess to do so) is convert all of the pipework to metric using adaptors. Generally, this just doesn’t work, costs loads in just adaptors alone and the amount of joints means you are going to have some leaks!

What rating of pipe do I need?

 

Pipe is rated to different pressures. You must use pressure rated pipe on your hot tub build as it is a pressurised system. In general, any pipe that is rated to 130 PSI or 9 BAR can be used on a hot tub build. This is often referred to as Class C. Likewise, Class E which is rated to 15 BAR or 218 PSI is also commonly found on hot tub builds.

Anything less than 130 PSI or 9 BAR should not be used – the pipes are not waste water pipes that are commonly found in hardware stores. They must be pressure rated and you will see this printed on the side of all the pipe so there will be no confusion.

What about Schedule 40 Pipe?

 

The schedule number on pipe correlates to the thickness of the wall on the pipe: as the number increases, the thicker the wall thickness is. Also, what is interesting is that while the schedule number can be the same on different sized pipes, the actual wall thickness will be different.

However, for our DIY Hot Tubs, we would only opt for schedule 40 – schedule 80 would be an overkill.

We also only use schedule 40 pipe if it is being buried and there is considerable weight on it. What I mean by this is that you need the physical strength of the pipe to stop it being crushed and cracked. In most cases, regular pressure rated pipe is just fine.

Should I use Rigid or Semi-Flexible Pipe?

 

When I built my own hot tub, I opted for semi-flexible as I though that it would be a little more forgiving. It is, however it is now my experience that the fact it is forgiving, and I use that in a loosest of terms as it is still pretty rigid pipe, it is more likely to leak.

The reason that it is more likely to leak is that you can “force” the joint when there is a little bit of give in the pipe. If you force the joint as I have said many times on this blog and on my YouTube Channel, you are going to have leaks – and it did!

For that reason, wherever possible today I recommend that you use rigid pipe. You have to make a good joint and it has to be accurate. It is forcing your workmanship which you will benefit from in the long run. Rigid pipe is the way forward for your DIY Hot Tub build.

Support your Pipework

 

If you pick up a length of pipe, 2m/6ft, there is not a lot of weight in it at all. However, if you fill that same pipe with water, cap it off each end and try to lift it, you will notice there is a huge weight increase. Water is heavy. If you have long runs of pipe, you must support them. Whether this is in ground and they should be laid correctly with a gravel base or if it is on your hot tub, they should be tied and pinned to the block work.

If you dont support your pipes and they fill with water, you can put strain on the joints that over time, will work their way loose and leak. It only takes a couple of minutes to tie your pipes and support them and it will save a whole bunch of time and money on repairs in the future by getting this right from the start.

Making the perfect joint with PVC pipe cement.

 

On this blog and on my YouTube Channel I talk a lot about making the correct joints and that a well made joint doesn’t leak. So, how do you make a well made joint?

1. Make sure when you cut the pipes you are cutting them at 90 degrees so they fit into the fittings correctly.
2. Make sure you remove any rough edges from your cuts
3. Ensure you are roughing up 3″ of the pipe with sand paper before you make the connection
4. Apply PVC Pipe Cement to the pipe and the connection
5. Twist the pipe or fitting as you are inserting it to prevent “channeling” which leads to leaks
6. Make sure the pipe goes all the way into the fitting (always a good idea to mark the ideal depth you want to get to)
7. Wipe off any excess pipe cement.
8. Allow to cure for 4 hours for full strength