Air Manifold 1.5 inches x 3/8 inches SB (16PT): The Heart of Your Hot Tub’s Jet System

Product Overview

As a dedicated hot tub enthusiast and spare parts supplier, I’m excited to introduce you to the Air Manifold 1.5 inches x 3/8 inches SB (16PT). This essential component, manufactured by the renowned Waterway brand, is crucial for maintaining the powerful and relaxing jet system in your hot tub.

Why This Air Manifold Matters

The air manifold plays a vital role in your hot tub’s circulation system. It’s responsible for efficiently distributing water from the pump to each of your tub’s jets, ensuring a consistent and invigorating massage experience. Without a properly functioning manifold, your hot tub’s performance could be compromised.

Key Features and Benefits

• Precision Engineering: Crafted by Waterway, a leader in hot tub components, this manifold is designed for optimal performance and longevity.
• Versatile Connectivity: With its 1.5 inches S x 1.5 inches Spg x 3/8 inches (16) smooth barb specifications, this manifold offers flexibility in your plumbing setup.
• Durable Construction: Built to withstand the demanding environment of hot tubs, including exposure to chemicals and varying temperatures.
• Easy Integration: Compatible with both 1.5 inch rigid pipe and 1.5 inch flexible rigid pipe, making it suitable for various hot tub models.

Installation Tips

For the best results when installing this air manifold:

1. Clean all connecting parts thoroughly with a plumbing cleaner.
2. Apply pipe cement for a secure, leak-free connection.
3. For the female end, push the pipe work inside the manifold.
4. At the male end, push the manifold into a female socket.

Technical Specifications

Specification	Details
Type	Air Manifold
Manufacturer	Waterway
Connections	1.5 inches S x 1.5 inches Spg x 3/8 inches (16) smooth barb
Internal Diameter	50mm (male), 40mm (female)
Outer Length	259mm
Depth/Diameter	56mm (male), 48mm (female)
Compatible With	1.5 inch rigid pipe and 1.5 inch flexible rigid pipe
Primary Function	Plumbing water to jets from the water pump

The Importance of Quality Components

When it comes to maintaining your hot tub, using high-quality parts like this Waterway air manifold is crucial. It ensures:

1. Optimal water flow to your jets
2. Consistent water pressure throughout your tub
3. Reduced risk of leaks or system failures
4. Longer lifespan of your hot tub’s plumbing system

Why Choose This Air Manifold?

As someone who’s worked extensively with hot tub parts, I can attest to the reliability and performance of Waterway components. This air manifold is no exception. Its robust construction and precise specifications make it an excellent choice for both repairs and upgrades to your hot tub’s jet system.

Compatibility and Versatility

Whether you’re working on a brand-new installation or replacing an old manifold, this part’s versatile design ensures it will fit a wide range of hot tub models. Its compatibility with both rigid and flexible pipes gives you options in your plumbing setup, allowing for easier installation in tight spaces.

Remember, a well-maintained hot tub is key to enjoying years of relaxation and hydrotherapy. By choosing quality parts like this Waterway air manifold, you’re investing in the longevity and performance of your hot tub.

If you have any questions about this product or need advice on your hot tub maintenance, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m here to help you keep your hot tub running at its best!

 

 

USA Imperial is the Standard

 

All hot tubs and their fittings are designed for USA standard of Imperial pipe. Would you believe that for example, a European 2.5″ pipe is different from a USA 2.5″ pipe – well it is and there is just over 2mm difference and it makes a huge difference as it doesn’t fit!

You must make sure that you are using American standard sized pipe – always worth checking with your supplier before you purchase.

Can I convert Metric pipe to Imperial?

 

Yes, you can convert metric pipe to imperial, usually there is a socket connection that will do that. However, what I would preface that with is really, the only reason you would want to do that is say if you have a long run of pipe between your control room and your hot tub. You cant easily get imperial pipe supply but you have found say 75mm pipe that would do the job.

In this instance, it would work to convert it down at each end.

However, what you cannot do (technically you can but it is a real mess to do so) is convert all of the pipework to metric using adaptors. Generally, this just doesn’t work, costs loads in just adaptors alone and the amount of joints means you are going to have some leaks!

What rating of pipe do I need?

 

Pipe is rated to different pressures. You must use pressure rated pipe on your hot tub build as it is a pressurised system. In general, any pipe that is rated to 130 PSI or 9 BAR can be used on a hot tub build. This is often referred to as Class C. Likewise, Class E which is rated to 15 BAR or 218 PSI is also commonly found on hot tub builds.

Anything less than 130 PSI or 9 BAR should not be used – the pipes are not waste water pipes that are commonly found in hardware stores. They must be pressure rated and you will see this printed on the side of all the pipe so there will be no confusion.

What about Schedule 40 Pipe?

 

The schedule number on pipe correlates to the thickness of the wall on the pipe: as the number increases, the thicker the wall thickness is. Also, what is interesting is that while the schedule number can be the same on different sized pipes, the actual wall thickness will be different.

However, for our DIY Hot Tubs, we would only opt for schedule 40 – schedule 80 would be an overkill.

We also only use schedule 40 pipe if it is being buried and there is considerable weight on it. What I mean by this is that you need the physical strength of the pipe to stop it being crushed and cracked. In most cases, regular pressure rated pipe is just fine.

Should I use Rigid or Semi-Flexible Pipe?

 

When I built my own hot tub, I opted for semi-flexible as I though that it would be a little more forgiving. It is, however it is now my experience that the fact it is forgiving, and I use that in a loosest of terms as it is still pretty rigid pipe, it is more likely to leak.

The reason that it is more likely to leak is that you can “force” the joint when there is a little bit of give in the pipe. If you force the joint as I have said many times on this blog and on my YouTube Channel, you are going to have leaks – and it did!

For that reason, wherever possible today I recommend that you use rigid pipe. You have to make a good joint and it has to be accurate. It is forcing your workmanship which you will benefit from in the long run. Rigid pipe is the way forward for your DIY Hot Tub build.

Support your Pipework

 

If you pick up a length of pipe, 2m/6ft, there is not a lot of weight in it at all. However, if you fill that same pipe with water, cap it off each end and try to lift it, you will notice there is a huge weight increase. Water is heavy. If you have long runs of pipe, you must support them. Whether this is in ground and they should be laid correctly with a gravel base or if it is on your hot tub, they should be tied and pinned to the block work.

If you dont support your pipes and they fill with water, you can put strain on the joints that over time, will work their way loose and leak. It only takes a couple of minutes to tie your pipes and support them and it will save a whole bunch of time and money on repairs in the future by getting this right from the start.

Making the perfect joint with PVC pipe cement.

 

On this blog and on my YouTube Channel I talk a lot about making the correct joints and that a well made joint doesn’t leak. So, how do you make a well made joint?

1. Make sure when you cut the pipes you are cutting them at 90 degrees so they fit into the fittings correctly.
2. Make sure you remove any rough edges from your cuts
3. Ensure you are roughing up 3″ of the pipe with sand paper before you make the connection
4. Apply PVC Pipe Cement to the pipe and the connection
5. Twist the pipe or fitting as you are inserting it to prevent “channeling” which leads to leaks
6. Make sure the pipe goes all the way into the fitting (always a good idea to mark the ideal depth you want to get to)
7. Wipe off any excess pipe cement.
8. Allow to cure for 4 hours for full strength