2 to 1.5 inch Threaded Face Plate Adapter: The Perfect Fit for Your Hot Tub

Product Overview

As an experienced hot tub enthusiast and spare parts supplier, I’m excited to introduce you to the 2 to 1.5 inch Threaded Face Plate Adapter. This essential component is designed to seamlessly connect different-sized plumbing fixtures in your hot tub system, ensuring optimal water flow and circulation.

Key Features

Versatile Compatibility

This adapter is commonly used with popular pump models such as the Aqua-flo Circ Master or Laing E14, frequently found in Master Spas and various other hot tub brands. Its versatility makes it an indispensable part for many hot tub configurations.

Precision Engineering

Manufactured by Gecko Europe50, a renowned name in the hot tub industry, this adapter is crafted with precision to meet the highest standards of quality and durability. The threaded design ensures a secure, leak-free connection, giving you peace of mind and allowing you to enjoy your hot tub without worries.

Easy Installation

With its straightforward screw-in plumbing connections, this adapter is designed for hassle-free installation. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or a professional technician, you’ll appreciate the simplicity and efficiency this product brings to your hot tub maintenance routine.

Detailed Specifications

To help you make an informed decision, here’s a comprehensive specifications table for the 2 to 1.5 inch Threaded Face Plate Adapter:

Specification	Detail
Type	Threaded Face Plate Adapter
Manufacturer	Gecko Europe50
Plumbing Connections	Screw in
Internal Diameter	46mm
External Diameter	83mm
Depth	25mm
Material	High-grade, hot tub-safe plastic
Color	White (may vary)
Thread Type	Standard hot tub thread
Weight	Approximately 100g (estimated)

Note: This adapter does not include an O-Ring. Ensure you have the appropriate O-Ring for a complete seal.

Why Choose This Adapter?

Superior Quality

As someone who’s worked with countless hot tub parts, I can attest to the superior quality of this Gecko Europe50 adapter. It’s built to withstand the harsh conditions of hot tub environments, including high temperatures and chemical exposure.

Perfect Fit

The precise dimensions (Internal Diameter: 46mm, External Diameter: 83mm, Depth: 25mm) ensure a perfect fit for a wide range of hot tub models. This adaptability can save you time and frustration when upgrading or repairing your hot tub’s plumbing system.

Improved Water Circulation

By properly connecting different-sized plumbing components, this adapter helps maintain optimal water flow in your hot tub. This can lead to improved circulation, better filtration, and ultimately, a more enjoyable and hygienic hot tub experience.

Installation Tips

While installation is straightforward, here are a few tips to ensure the best performance:

1. Always clean and dry the connection points before installation.
2. Use plumber’s tape on the threads for an extra secure seal.
3. Hand-tighten the adapter, then use a wrench for a final quarter turn. Avoid over-tightening to prevent damage.
4. After installation, run your hot tub and check for any leaks.

Conclusion

The 2 to 1.5 inch Threaded Face Plate Adapter is a small but crucial component for many hot tub setups. Its quality construction, precise fit, and ease of installation make it an excellent choice for both repairs and upgrades. Whether you’re maintaining a Master Spa or another brand, this adapter could be the solution you’re looking for to keep your hot tub running smoothly.

Remember, proper maintenance and the use of quality parts like this adapter can significantly extend the life of your hot tub and enhance your overall experience. If you have any questions about this product or its compatibility with your specific hot tub model, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m here to help you make the most of your hot tub!

 

 

USA Imperial is the Standard

 

All hot tubs and their fittings are designed for USA standard of Imperial pipe. Would you believe that for example, a European 2.5″ pipe is different from a USA 2.5″ pipe – well it is and there is just over 2mm difference and it makes a huge difference as it doesn’t fit!

You must make sure that you are using American standard sized pipe – always worth checking with your supplier before you purchase.

Can I convert Metric pipe to Imperial?

 

Yes, you can convert metric pipe to imperial, usually there is a socket connection that will do that. However, what I would preface that with is really, the only reason you would want to do that is say if you have a long run of pipe between your control room and your hot tub. You cant easily get imperial pipe supply but you have found say 75mm pipe that would do the job.

In this instance, it would work to convert it down at each end.

However, what you cannot do (technically you can but it is a real mess to do so) is convert all of the pipework to metric using adaptors. Generally, this just doesn’t work, costs loads in just adaptors alone and the amount of joints means you are going to have some leaks!

What rating of pipe do I need?

 

Pipe is rated to different pressures. You must use pressure rated pipe on your hot tub build as it is a pressurised system. In general, any pipe that is rated to 130 PSI or 9 BAR can be used on a hot tub build. This is often referred to as Class C. Likewise, Class E which is rated to 15 BAR or 218 PSI is also commonly found on hot tub builds.

Anything less than 130 PSI or 9 BAR should not be used – the pipes are not waste water pipes that are commonly found in hardware stores. They must be pressure rated and you will see this printed on the side of all the pipe so there will be no confusion.

What about Schedule 40 Pipe?

 

The schedule number on pipe correlates to the thickness of the wall on the pipe: as the number increases, the thicker the wall thickness is. Also, what is interesting is that while the schedule number can be the same on different sized pipes, the actual wall thickness will be different.

However, for our DIY Hot Tubs, we would only opt for schedule 40 – schedule 80 would be an overkill.

We also only use schedule 40 pipe if it is being buried and there is considerable weight on it. What I mean by this is that you need the physical strength of the pipe to stop it being crushed and cracked. In most cases, regular pressure rated pipe is just fine.

Should I use Rigid or Semi-Flexible Pipe?

 

When I built my own hot tub, I opted for semi-flexible as I though that it would be a little more forgiving. It is, however it is now my experience that the fact it is forgiving, and I use that in a loosest of terms as it is still pretty rigid pipe, it is more likely to leak.

The reason that it is more likely to leak is that you can “force” the joint when there is a little bit of give in the pipe. If you force the joint as I have said many times on this blog and on my YouTube Channel, you are going to have leaks – and it did!

For that reason, wherever possible today I recommend that you use rigid pipe. You have to make a good joint and it has to be accurate. It is forcing your workmanship which you will benefit from in the long run. Rigid pipe is the way forward for your DIY Hot Tub build.

Support your Pipework

 

If you pick up a length of pipe, 2m/6ft, there is not a lot of weight in it at all. However, if you fill that same pipe with water, cap it off each end and try to lift it, you will notice there is a huge weight increase. Water is heavy. If you have long runs of pipe, you must support them. Whether this is in ground and they should be laid correctly with a gravel base or if it is on your hot tub, they should be tied and pinned to the block work.

If you dont support your pipes and they fill with water, you can put strain on the joints that over time, will work their way loose and leak. It only takes a couple of minutes to tie your pipes and support them and it will save a whole bunch of time and money on repairs in the future by getting this right from the start.

Making the perfect joint with PVC pipe cement.

 

On this blog and on my YouTube Channel I talk a lot about making the correct joints and that a well made joint doesn’t leak. So, how do you make a well made joint?

1. Make sure when you cut the pipes you are cutting them at 90 degrees so they fit into the fittings correctly.
2. Make sure you remove any rough edges from your cuts
3. Ensure you are roughing up 3″ of the pipe with sand paper before you make the connection
4. Apply PVC Pipe Cement to the pipe and the connection
5. Twist the pipe or fitting as you are inserting it to prevent “channeling” which leads to leaks
6. Make sure the pipe goes all the way into the fitting (always a good idea to mark the ideal depth you want to get to)
7. Wipe off any excess pipe cement.
8. Allow to cure for 4 hours for full strength